Day 231: Beautiful Autumn on the TennTom

Day 231: Beautiful Autumn on the TennTom

10/29/18 Monday:  We got into Midway in the early evening last night. By the time we got fueled up, docked, and some of the grime rinsed off, we hardly knew who was at the marina or what plans might be happening for the morning. We planned to go to Columbus Marina today, which is about 60 miles and 4 locks away. The first lock is just 3 miles from Midway.  We figured that it would just make sense to wake up at 6:30 and listen for activity. Sure enough!  That blasted alarm went off at 6:30 in the dark, AGAIN. I snuggled into my blankie for a few minutes, not wanting to give up my nice warm cocoon, but my planner-self instinct soon took over. I got up, dressed, looked outside, and saw people out wiping the dew off of their windows and getting ready to go.  It was about 48 degrees out, and the dew point was above 50. So the moisture just kept fogging everything up. I stepped out on the dock and asked if someone had called the lock. Yep – we were all clear to get on with it. In about 10 minutes.  Ok!  I quick went in and told the Captain that we needed to prepare for departure – right now! No time for fixin coffee. Read more

Day 230: Time to tootle down the Tenn-Tom

10/28/18 Sunday:  Our neighbor boat Justified was planning to start down the Tenn-Tom today, so we decided last night that a 7:00 am departure made sense.  (Ugh!  That darn alarm clock again!). Sunrise is at 7:00, and we have 3 locks and 58 miles to travel today.  We all decided that it is best to start as early as possible, because you just never know what challenges the locks will throw into the day.

The “Tenn-Tom” is the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway, which was completed in 1984 at a total cost of nearly $2 billion.  It is a 234-mile man-made waterway that extends from the Tennessee River at the north end, to the junction of the Black Warrior-Tombigbee River system near Demopolis Alabama at the south end.  The waterway has ten locks, with a total change in elevation of 341 feet.

We were pretty much up and going out of the marina before the sun came over the hills.  There was just a bit of fog on the water, and a tiny breeze.  It was going to be a nice day!

Soon we were in a man-made canal section of the waterway, with dikes on the sides.

There were these elaborate spillways to prevent severe erosion.  They looked pretty interesting, and I’ll bet they look cool when water is flowing down over them.

We saw some beautiful fall colors!

When we arrived at the first lock, we did not get right in.  We had to tread water for awhile, and there were a few other boats that arrived to lock through when we finally got to go in.  There was a lot of big equipment at the upstream end of this Whitten lock.  It is the tallest on this waterway, it raises and lowers vessels about 84 feet, and it is the fourth-highest single lift lock in the United States.

There was a message posted on the AGLCA forum about this particular lock that recommended securing to one side over the other because of getting wet along the lock wall while tied off to the bollards.  We weren’t sure what that was all about, but we found out!  And trust me, you’ll get wet on either side!  Inside the lock walls, at about 50-60 feet down, there are doors that look like the door on a safe.  And they leak!  There was no escaping the shower.  You can see the water pouring out of the far one here.

I tried to get a shot of the doors right above me without getting too wet.  It’s hard to see all the water spraying out of them from this angle.  Kenny was back in the cockpit, and said that Stuart was turning into an inflatable swimming pool.

Our friend Bert in his go-fast boat was on the opposite wall, and I could see that he was getting water in his boat.

Well THAT was an adventure that we have not experienced in over 100 locks!  Maybe that pile of equipment at the upstream end is for a project to fix the leaks?  Just look at how tall these walls are!

It was only about 5 miles to the next lock.  We got right into it without waiting.  Bert had zoomed ahead, and was already in and waiting for us.  The Montgomery Lock lowered us about 30 feet.  And no complimentary shower at this one.

Look at the weather we were having!!  It was a beautiful day, and we even had to switch to short sleeves!

It was just another 9 miles to the Rankin lock, next on our journey.  We had to wait at this one.  There was a tow approaching the lock from downstream, so we had to wait for it to arrive, load into the lock, secure, lift, unsecure, and unload.  So we floated around for an hour or so.  While we were floating, Mechanic/Electrical Engineer Kenny worked on the bow thruster.  I forgot to mention to you that it went a little bonkers after the big rain we had a couple nights ago.  Well – only the controller on the upper helm went bonkers.  The lower helm one worked fine, so he knew it was something in the controller switch.  There are two components to using the bow thruster.  One is a power switch, and the other is the actual little joystick controller.  As soon as he turned on the power switch to provide power to the system, it immediately engaged and pushed the bow to the starboard side.  THAT was not expected!  The only way to disengage was to turn the power off.  It seemed that the joystick was stuck.  He has not been using it for the last few days, and it is really a good thing that he knows how to drive Island Girl without it.  He actually only uses the bow thruster when we’re in a tight spot or for an extra little bump here and there, which is helpful when the wind blows us off the wall or dock when I’m trying to lasso something.  Anyway, he got out his screw gun and tools, and took the controller unit out of the dash and took it apart.  It was full of water!  He dried it out, tested it, and it worked properly!  YAY!  He put a tiny little hole in the bottom of the controller box unit so that if water gets in again it will be able to drain out.  Engineer got it all put back together which made the Captain happy, and we waited a little longer for the lock.

We heard the lock blow the ‘all clear’ horn, then saw the tow as it started its way out.  It is a little hard to see, but this picture shows just how tight the tow and the lock fit each other!  That barge is just barely squeezing  through along the walls.

The sun was now getting lower in the western sky, so looking to the east along the waterway, the trees were really filled with golden fall colors.  And there were more and more trees growing in the water.  Cypress maybe?

There were a thousand wood ducks meandering across the river.  The flock stretched all the way from one bank to the other, so we could not go around them.  So we just stayed on course and went right through the middle of them.  They finally figured out our course and started skeedaddeling out of the way.

Finally at about 5:00, we reached the Midway marina.  It was a 10 hour day to go 56 miles and 3 locks.  And we averaged nearly 9 mph when moving.  So waiting for and transiting the three locks took about four hours.  It’s really a good thing we left at 7:00!  We pulled into Midway Marina following the little local green and red markers.  I’m glad they had markers because there was quite a stump forest on the north side as we were approaching, but the marked channel was good.  We first pulled up to the fuel dock and took on a couple hundred gallons at $2.99/gal.  Probably the best prices on the Tenn-Tom.  Then we just walked Island Girl back on the dock to the spot where we would sleep tonight.  There didn’t appear to be much here, and it was dark before we knew it.  Sunset is at 6:00, so we only have 11 hours of daylight right now.  And…Oh man!…. Daylight Savings Time ends in a week!  That’s going to put sunset really early for us, and we’re going to have to hop out earlier to get the most daylight.  Ugh!

We saw several familiar looper boats, but we didn’t visit with many folks since it got dark so quickly after we finally got tied off.  I figure we’ll set the alarm for 6:30, and keep our ears peeled for activity in the morning.  The next lock is within a stones throw, so we’ll surely get a good idea on timing first thing in the morning.  And by the way, we are officially in another state now – Mississippi!  That makes our 18th and probably final new state on this journey.  Our future travels will take us through Alabama and Florida, which we’ve already been in.

Day 229: Another wet, staying dry inside kind of day

10/27/18 Saturday:  We had a nice peaceful night at Joe Wheeler State Park.  The guys on Just Right and Halcyon Days were going to call the lock at 6:30, and then call us on VHF 69 with the news at 6:30am.  The sun doesn’t even wake up until 7:00 around here!  We were awake around 6:00 though.  There was a big yacht named Checkers that fired up and was departing the harbor.  They weren’t that loud, it’s just that our ears tend to hear motors, especially since our pillows are near the hull and waterline.

The VHF call came.  The Wheeler lock is only 2 miles from here, and the lock master said it was currently all clear with nothing currently in sight.  The other boats were pondering whether to go have breakfast in the lodge, or go while the coast was clear.  I voted go.  They decided that way too, so we agreed to get off the dock just after 7:00 and make our way to the lock.  Then I looked outside and what to my wondering eyes should appear…. but a giant fleet of bass boats!  It is Saturday, and apparently there was a tournament of some sort going on.  There were at least two dozen boats, with their navigation lights on in the early dawn light.  They were all single file, puttering up to the boundary line for ‘no wakes’ – which was directly across the bay from our bow.  It was really fun to watch them all put the hammer down and take off like lightening as soon as they got to that sign.

Our lock buddies today were good luck charms, because we only had to wait a little while for the lock doors to open.  YAY!  I think Checkers was ahead of us and we just had to wait for the lock chamber to fill and reopen for us.   Soon we were on our way to the next lock, just 13 or so miles away.

The Wilson lock was almost ready for us when we got there, and we didn’t have to tread water much at all. This lock is HUGE!  And the ride is so much nicer going down in a lock than going up.  They just pull the plug in the bathtub, and the water drains away.

We had just the two, Wheeler and Wilson locks, to go through – separated by about 15 miles or so.  Today was another wind-in-our-face day, with lots of splashing of lake water all over the bow and windshield.  Once again, I was very thankful for an interior helm, and Captain admitted that he is getting accustomed to driving from inside.  It’s still not his favorite, but it beats wind, rain, and cold!

At the bottom of the Wilson lock, we traveled a short canal.  When it opened up to rejoin the rest of the river, the view was pretty cool.  I don’t remember seeing this when we traveled the opposite direction going up river.  Just beyond this bridge was a huge rock cliff.

To the left of the bridge were these huge federal mooring cells.  These are here so that the tows/barges can pull up and tie off.  I don’t know if these are still in use, but they looked like huge planters.  Notice the bass boat at the base of the one on the left.  And then there is a big house up on the hill.  I just thought it was a cool picture with a lot of variety.

We cruised right on past Florence and the marina where we previously stayed.  The trees turned red while we were gone!  I see our friends Sabbatical in there!

We saw a few places where there were more fishermen and bass boats.  Tis the weekend, after all!

We were going another 40ish miles from Florence, and we had the wind hitting us head-on.  Island Girl rode really nice through the waves.  They were just about one to one & a half foot, so with the wind, it was just enough to keep splashing the windshield.  This picture was through the middle – where the wiper still wasn’t working.

When we were almost to our turnoff, I saw this waterfall.  I’m pretty sure this is the one that Charlie took people to see in his pontoon boat, back when we were at Grand Harbor marina a couple of weeks ago.  It’s not a huge waterfall, but I don’t think there are any big giant waterfalls in this part of the country!  It was a pretty little cove.

We arrived at Aqua Yacht Harbor by 3:00 or so.  There were a lot of looper boats here, but they were all spread out around the marina, and it’s a big marina!  The marina had us come to the fuel dock first to get registered and a map for our slip assignment.  This is one of the best boat yards around, too, so boats will stay here and get work done.  I did a couple of loads of laundry, while Mechanic Kenny worked on a few odds & ends.  Since the middle windshield wiper quit working during the splashing about, that was top on the list.  The pump for the wiener-dog wash down hose quit working again awhile back, and he’s been trying to figure out how to fix it. There will be some nights coming soon where we will have no choice but to anchor in the river, and it’s likely that I’ll want that wash down hose working.  Laverne still doesn’t like to start when she’s cold, and that still has him quite perplexed.  And, when we go fast, one of the dripless shaft seals likes to spray water.  UH OH!  But he assures me that it’s only when we go fast.  But doesn’t that mean there’s some opportunity for the dripless to be dripping? 🤔

While we were motoring along today, I was little Miss Suzy Homemaker, and thawed out some meat and prepared a meatloaf for dinner.  OOH yea – I still have some Michigan Cherry BBQ sauce that is the BOMB!  This worked out great, because when it got to be dinner time, I just popped it in the oven and baked it while I made taters and salad.  Although the taters were way easy to fix too.  I buy small bags of those little reds or little yeller taters.  I put em in a bowl with a bit of water and microwave them for a few minutes.  TaDA!  Perfect taters!  Or  “tay-toes”, as our 2 year old granddaughter would say.  We had a great meal and a nice relaxing evening on board.   We heard that Rascals Retreat just crossed their wake as they came into this marina today!!  Charlie was out recruiting people to come to his home to help them celebrate. He is such a great harbor host!  We were pretty tired, so we stayed home.  We visited and planned to travel tomorrow with the boat Justified docked next to us, as we start down the Tenn-Tom. We’ll have three locks tomorrow on our way to Midway, although the first one is 38 miles down stream, and then all three locks are in a 15 mile stretch.  It’s still kind of nice to travel along with someone, so we’ll set the ol’ alarm again, and get a move on around 7:00.  We agreed that getting the earliest start possible is good, since you never know how long the locks will mess with your day.

Day 228: 100 miles today, 5000 miles total

10/26/18 Friday:  Are we crazy or what?!  Another early get up day, with the plan to travel 100 miles.  SAY WHAT!?  Yep.  The plan is to get on down the rivah.  In the rain.  And the cold.  All day.  I’m so thankful that we have a helm inside the boat where it is dry, no wind, and is warmer than outside.  We cannot run the heaters without running the generator, but at least I can put blankets on and stay warm out of the wind!  The neighbor boat already had their generator running first thing this morning.  The Captain said that his current Admiral needs to stay warm.  I think they were going to run their generator to run their heat as they cruised today.  I just found my blankies, hoodie, and scarf, and had them ready.

Here is what has been going on.  Red numbers 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 on the map were our stops going up the Tennessee River.  We stayed in Chattanooga at #7 for three nights (and Rogersville at #3 for six nights for Rendezvous).  And now instead of taking 6 nights coming back down the river, we are taking just 3 days with stops at purple 8,9,10.  We are putting in some long days to get back to our starting point, which will be at the top of the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway, where we will end our side trip and re-join the Great Loop route.  The green line was our travel for today.

Look at this!  I wasn’t kidding!  This morning was cold, cloudy, rainy, foggy, and mostly yucky outside.

There were two other boats (locals) at Goosepond that were traveling downriver today, and we managed to hit the lock at Guntersville together.

Our timing was fortunate.  There was a tow below the lock, but we were able to scuttle on in and get lowered down, without having to wait for it to be lifted.  Whew!!  And the rain held back to just a sprinkle while we locked through, so we didn’t get soaked.  After we were out of the lock, we heard Aslan call for a drop through.  He was just that far behind us, but unfortunately, he had to wait for the up-bound tow to get through.

We continued our long unremarkable, windy-in-the-rain trip to Joe Wheeler State Park.  We soon saw Bert go zooming by in his little go-fast Grady White.  We knew that he was headed to Wheeler too, because he told us that Saturday night is Prime Rib buffet night there!  YUM!

I didn’t take many pictures today, and it wasn’t an exciting day.  The wind blew, the rain fell, the lake/river splashed.  The middle windshield wiper quit working.  The Captain-side one and the Navigator-side ones still worked.  Another project for Mr. Mechanic.

When we arrived at Joe Wheeler, we were thankful that it is tucked back in a nice cove, and sheltered from the westerly wind.  It was good to get out of the whitecaps for docking.  We arrived about 5:00, and it was starting to get dark.  Of course, because it was kind of dreary all day.  The marina staff was already gone.  When I called the marina earlier in the day, they said that when we arrived, we could just pick any open slip, and go register at the front desk of the hotel.  We were met on the dock by Mr. & Mrs. Just Right.  It was nice to see familiar faces and have help catching and tieing lines.  I had changed into some capri leggings and my Keen sandals, and I was cold!  But I knew I was going to get wet, and didn’t want to get my jeans soaked walking up and down the gunwales of the soggy wet boat.

Mr. & Mrs. Just Right were soon headed up to the buffet for dinner with Mr. & Mrs. Halcyon Days.  We weren’t too far behind them.  The dinner was OK – nothing spectacular.  But we were surprised how busy the restaurant was.  Perhaps this is a popular dinner spot for locals on Saturday nights?  We did make arrangements with the two couples for our departure in the morning.  They would call the Wheeler lock, which is just a couple of miles down stream from here.  We’d get a report from them at 6:30 determining our departure time based on lock activity.

We settled in, turned on some heat, and hit the sack.  We traveled 99.3 miles today, with 10:02 hours of moving time.  We also jumped over a major milestone – 5000 miles for this Great Loop trip so far.  Tomorrow we will jump over 600 hours of moving time for the engines (according to the Garmin)  and transit our 100th lock of the journey.  Man!  No wonder we’re tired!

Day 227: Cool cruisin back down the Tennessee

10/25/18 Thursday:  Happy birthday to our oldest daughter!  We had to wake up with the alarm today, because we wanted to get a move on.  There was rain forecasted for later in the day, and we hoped to get a bunch of miles in today.  A few days ago when we came up the river, we broke this segment into two days to enjoy the ride.  Today, we wanted to skip the Shellmound stop, and go 86 miles all the way to Goosepond.  I hate alarm clocks, but we were awake anyway, because our neighbor boats were fired up and ready to go.  It was a spectacularly beautiful sunrise!

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Day 226: A little more local exploration

10/24/18 Wednesday:  A lazy, sunny, cool, crisp autumn morning.  Kennedy and I strapped on our walking shoes, and set out for adventure.  From the Bluff dock, we went up to street level, via this beautiful sweeping garden ramp.  This was a little different, because it appeared to be the entry way into an amphitheatre under the highway bridge.   Huh?  It was a little bit uncomfortable under there for us.  Why would you have a dirt terraced amphitheatre under the highway?  We come from a place where all sorts of undesirables live under bridges – and I’m not just talking trolls.  But this zigzag ramp garden was very pretty.  It is at the edge of the “Art district”.

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Day 225: “See Rock City!”… and more adventures

10/23/18 Tuesday:  It was a no-hurry kind of morning.  It wasn’t too cold or too cloudy outside, so it was a nice day for an adventure!  Enterprise Car Rental came to pick us up at about 9:30.  We got our car, and adjusted our rental to be just until Thursday.  With the crummy weather that is coming, Kenny & I decided that we would not stay until the weekend.  We were only thinking we would extend our stay if we were going to Gatlinburg and the Smokeys – and that didn’t sound so fun in the rain.

Once in the car, I suggested breakfast.  There was a place that sounded really great – The Maple Street Biscuit Company.  So we went to check it out.  It was nice and far different than your normal Denny’s or Waffle House for breakfast!  You order at the counter, and since it’s close to Halloween, they asked what your costume would be if there were no budget constraints.  I said IRONMAN, since Stark is our name.  When our order was ready, they called IRONMAN.  How fun!  Then they have lots of long-table seating along with regular 4-square tables.  Their philosophy is all about community and conversation, so you may end up sitting at a table with people you don’t know.  I had some amazing Gouda cheese hash browns smothered in country sausage gravy with an egg on top.  Kenny was in HEAVEN! with his biscuits and sausage gravy.

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Day 224: Hello Chattanooga!

10/22/18 Monday:  What a beautiful day.  We only had less than 40 miles to travel today, so we weren’t in a hurry to get going.  It’s a good thing, too – because it was barely 40 degrees outside, and the water was steaming, creating fog.  Unlike yesterday, there wasn’t any wind to blow the fog away.  Looking up though, the sky was clear blue beautiful.  The local houseboats started their parade, heading downbound on the river.

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Day 223: wowza it’s cold!

10/21/18:  Sunday – The wake-up alarm went off at 6:30.  It was quite a breezy night, and cold.  I never even pulled off my extra blankie in the middle of the night like I usually do.  At one point, Kenny got up to see what kind of scallywag pirate might have boarded the boat in the dark – but alas, no pirate brawl ensued.  It was just a giant wind gust that rocked us and thumped us against the dock. It was still pretty windy this morning and quite brisk out there.  Our reason for hopping out at sunrise and casting off by 7:00 was to try to be the first boat to arrive at a FREE dock, located 45 miles up river- about half way between here at Chattanooga. Since we couldn’t make a reservation, we want to make sure we’d get a spot.  But dang it was cold outside, and breezy. 38 degrees and 10 mph wind in the face, plus our own 10mph speed. Brrrrrr!  This was the lily pad channel going out of Goosepond.  Notice there is no sunshine coming over the trees to the water yet!  We were in Central Time Zone here, with first light at 6:30 and sunrise was at 6:55.

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Day 222: Kennedy’s first lock!

10/20/18 Saturday:  It was forecasted to be a rainy morning, and yes it was.  Larry radioed us at 6:30, and relayed that the lockmaster said we shouldn’t have any problem getting into the lock if we left now.  Now?  Like by 7:00?  Yep.  OK!  Crank up the coffee and let’s cast off the lines!  It was not foggy, but it was soggy outside!  I put on my raincoat, a hat, and some leggings so that my jeans wouldn’t get soaked, and went out to do fenders and lines.  Island Girl was out on the river by 7:00, and took the lead in our parade to the lock.

This is looking back down river.  The water was nice and calm, and no wind so the rain wasn’t pelting in on us.  Just a soggy doggy day.  It wasn’t forecasted to last beyond about 11:00, so the day wouldn’t be terrible.  Once we got out on the river, Kenny came down stairs to stay a little more dry than it was up on the fly bridge.

We saw some beautiful fall colors and big cliffs today.

This is looking back at the boats behind us, which gives an idea of how tall these cliffs were.  There were some times of fog on the water, so we did slow down a bit so that all the boats could be within a mile or so of each other.

When we got to the lock, the rain had pretty much stopped, and we didn’t even have to wait to get into the lock!  There were a couple of dive boats ahead of us, then our fleet of looper boats.  Yes -I said dive boats.  There has been some work being done somewhere in this section of the river.  In fact, while we were at Wheeler, the river was closed to all vessels between 8-12, and 1-4 each day due to the divers in the water.

We all got into the lock and secured.  I manned the bow line, and Kennedy got to man the stern line.  It was really fun to share this locking experience with her, and she was fascinated with the process.

Our destination today was Goosepond Marina.  It was up a well marked channel, with those small little local kind of buoys.  There were plantations of lily pads along both sides of the channel, but we did fine.  We pulled up to the fuel dock  and filled up our tanks with $2.96/gal diesel.  Then tootled over and backed into our slip for tonight.  Easy peazy. We hadn’t had much to eat today, so we walked over to the marina office to see if we could use the courtesy car to go to town.  Someone else had it, so we walked to the bait & tackle shop and had some really good po-dunk burgers!  YUM!

I laughed at this sign.  I’m just not used to the kind of tackle and bait they use in this part of the world!

We finally got the loaner car, so we headed out to go to Scottsboro, just for something to do.  There were all of these cute pumpkin heads along the drive out to the main road.

We were told that we should go to Unclaimed Baggage in town.  It is a huge store, and their inventory is from unclaimed airline baggage.  Yep!  If the airline cannot reunite lost luggage with it’s owner after three months, it comes here.  All the clothes are dry cleaned, all the electronics are tested.

This store was crazy amazing!  It’s like a goodwill on steroids.  There were some great clothing, shoes, boots, purses, coats, jewelry, cameras, watches, headphones, musical instruments, etc. etc.  Kenny found me an awesome pair of hooker/pirate-wench stiletto thigh high boots – even in my size!  I should have bought them – they were only $10!  Kennedy found a nice pair of normal boots that had never been worn.  Kenny got a nice warm coat for $20, which will be good to have in this chilly weather fly-bridge driving we’re having.  This place was a hoot.  I should have bought myself some BEATS headphones.  There were hundreds of them.

On our way back, I caught a quick shot of the Scottsboro Jackson County courthouse.

And then another fun loving pumpkin head.  Happy Halloween!!

I didn’t get any more pictures today, but after we got back from town, we gave the car keys back to a looper friend Bert.  He needed to run to Walmart and buy a little 12 volt heater.  He is doing the loop in a 23 foot Grady White with two 200 horse outboards.  I’m telling ya, people do this loop in all kinds of boats!  But with this cold weather, he was looking for something just to take the chill off in the mornings.  He asked if we’d join him for dinner when he got back.  We said ‘of course’!   We all walked to a nearby restaurant for dinner and we had a really nice evening.  It was a fun day, and Kennedy got a nice feel for what this looper lifestyle is all about.  Friends new & old that we meet along the way are just like family.  We adventure along the waterways with each other, we find fun kooky things to do in the little towns along the way, and we just have a relaxed, no schedule way of life.  What’s not to like about that?!  She’s going to fit right in as a nice break from her busy, corporate, not-yet-retired life.