Day 49:  Portsmouth & Norfolk-two sides/one river

Day 49: Portsmouth & Norfolk-two sides/one river

4/30/18 Monday:  This looper schedule is taking over our bodies and brains!  We were both awake at 5:00am.  What the heck?!  That ain’t natural for a Stark!  I laid there until 6 and finally got up.  No big schedule today, so we chilled out and had brunch around 11:00.  Its a nice change to have omelets, fruit and toast at a leisurely pace.  Sometime around noon we ventured out to explore historic Portsmouth.  It is on the southwestern side of the Elizabeth River.  Norfolk is on the opposite side.   We found several looper boats here in this marina.  The AGLCA Spring Renedezvous is happening today through Thursday over in Norfolk.  We did not register to go to the event because we did not want to have a schedule this early in our trip.  We are here just in time for it by coincidence.  While here, we got our Fleet of 2018 T-shirt’s!  🤗  Yay Island Girl!   See there – we are not alone out here on this adventure!

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Day 48: From Swamp to City

4/29/18: Sunday:  The Great Dismal Swamp.  Sounds inviting? 😯  Nobody is really sure how it got its name.  The swamp originally spread over 1 million acres.  It was first surveyed in 1728 to run a dividing line between the disputing colonies of Virginia and North Carolina.  In 1763, George Washington suggested draining the swamp and digging a canal to connect the waters of Chesapeake Bay and Albemarle Sound.  He and others hoped to drain the swamp to harvest trees and use the land for farming.

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Day 47: Rose Buddies and cars-Elizabeth City

4/28/18 Saturday:  The greasy spoon breakfast only took about a half hour, so we were just fixing coffee when the gang came out of the gas station and were getting ready to go.  We pulled away from the dock at about 7:20 this morning to just a slight chop on the water.  We trawlered out to the ICW and ran at about 7 knots until we cleared all of the markers to the Albemarle Sound.  Then Captain rolled her up to a nice 16 knots or so to cruise across the Sound.

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Day 46: Are there alligators in Alligator River?

4/27/18 Friday:  What a nice morning!  The wind and waves finally calmed down last night, and we slept well.  The gang decided to leave by 7:00 today, so we were up physically, but not totally atum.  As Captain was out on the dock getting ready for departure, Eddie from Total Eclipse commented – “Ken… you aren’t really a morning person, are you?”  HA!  That made us laugh.  It’s that obvious, huh?😳☺😴  But we were ready and pulled away from the dock just before 7.  It was glaze glass calm out there!  So nice!  Our route would take us up the Pungo River to the Alligator Pungo Canal.  I read that this was the last piece of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway to be completed back in 1928, connecting Norfolk Virginia to Miami Florida with a complete inland waterway.

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Day 45: Pamilco, Pungo, and Jack’s Neck?

4/26/18:  What a beautiful calm day on the water!  We ran with Ned Pepper and Total Eclipse up to Belhaven; just over 40 miles in less than 5 hours.  Pamilco Sound was really calm and beautiful.  We had just a little breeze following us, so we were plenty warm in the sunshine up on the fly bridge.  From the Pamilco Sound, we then went up the Pungo River. That just sounds like we should be in South America or Africa or something.

The scenery was nice today.  We saw this seafood dock along the way.  We had heard that it is a great place to stop to buy fresh seafood, and you can dock overnight there.  We still have shrimp in the freezer from McClellanville, so we did not stop.

I thought my boys would get a kick out of this.  I always pictured a ‘duck blind’ as being on the shore near the water.  But I’m guessing that this structure out in the water with the dry frizzeled up branches is used as a duck blind during season.  We saw a couple of them, and have no other ideas for what they might be.

We arrived in Belhaven around 1:00, with still pretty calm winds.  The marina is really just a channel with a long face dock.  So we all came in and are tied up in a row.  Captain pivoted us around very nicely so we are pointed out for our quick escape in the morning.  😉

This afternoon was kind of breezy, which we only noticed because the boats have been rocking like crazy!  There is no other reason for us to rock- there is not a bunch of boats zooming by the marina.  It must just be from the wind outside of the marina channel.  We all decided to go out to dinner  – which I thought was a great idea because the boats are rocking so much.  We walked around ‘town’ a bit.  It is a tiny little town.  The fanciest looking place is The Tavern at Jack’s Neck (on the right in this picture).

Apparently “Jack’s Neck” was once the name of this town!

There are several little boutique shops, with all sorts of things.  This was outside one of them.  Quite an unusual bench!

The police station is pretty basic.  We wondered if the caboose (on the right) serves as the jail.

Captain and I were just going to go to the tavern for dinner, but the other folks had a recommendation to go to “Spoon River Artworks and Market”.  It is a place that doesn’t have a name that sounds like a restaurant nor does it have a standard menu.  They source as much as they can locally, so whatever is available becomes the menu.  I was a little nervous of the white table cloths.  I can’t eat a lot of sauces and fancy things because they’re usually loaded with garlic.  And we just are not foodies.  We have basic bar and comfort food palettes – burgers, chicken, steak, pizza, salad, BBQ… that’s our wheelhouse…but we said we’d give it a go.  The place was really cleverly decorated, and the service was great.

The prices were higher than we are used to paying, and the portions were huge.   Kenny and I split a rib-eye steak dinner.  It was very good and it was plenty for both of us.  They had very fresh vegetables that were lightly steamed, so they still had good crunch.  We only had the one entree and water, and with the tip it was $59!  Holy smokes!  We will definitely pay more attention to what we’re getting ourselves into!  Here’s our dinner gang.  Eddie & Kate from Total Eclipse on the left; Tammi, son Andrew is visiting for a few hundred miles, and Mike from Ned Pepper.  They were all equally shocked when they saw the menu.  Oh well.  We had great company and tasty food.  Tomorrow, we’ll have peanut butter & jelly.  😋

We got back to the marina (just down the street 1/2 block) and the boats were still rocking.  We decided to have some after dinner coffee and sit & visit in a nice gazebo that was there.  The marina had a big lawn and said they had croquet – that would have been fun!

So we’ll get up and go in the morning around 7:00, and head for Alligator Marina.  It’s about 47 miles.  We’ll have a 15 mile canal to travel, which we’ve heard is narrow and can be challenging if there is a tug/tow going through.  Passing is tricky.  Let’s hope for no company in the canal tomorrow!  This was our journey today.  At the bottom, we came out into Pamilco Sound.  Then up through a channel where the seafood dock was.  Then out and across the Pamilco River, and north into the Pungo River.  Tomorrow, we’ll go east on the Pungo River to the straight ditch looking canal.  We’re headed for Alligator River.

 

Days 43,44: Wind,Rain,Sun at….Whortonsville?

4/24 & 25/18: Tuesday was the day with the Gale Warning – It rained nearly all day and was blustery.  Not a boat moved.  I got up and met a few of the ladies at the gym here at the marina.  Wow- what a nice facility!  And the washrooms were like a spa – with towels, slippers, a sauna and a steam room.  I took my yoga mat and Gladys with a yoga program to stream, and while they lifted weights and treaded on the mill, I did yoga.  Boy, that felt good.  Except I’ve never done yoga in front of a mirror.  THAT was not a pleasant sight to behold. 😳

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Day 42: Hiding at River Dunes

4/23/18:  Ahhhhh – a nice sleep-in day!  Highs to be in the mid 60’s today, but windy.  Not really good enough to enjoy the pool.  Darn!  A nice leisurely morning, complete with a bacon, egg, and toast breakfast served up by chief cook Karen.  Another looper boat pulled in around 10:00.  They said it was a very wet ride out on the Sound today!  These folks are Platinum Loopers!  That means they have completed the entire loop at least twice.  They are well known in the AGLCA, and are headed to Norfolk to speak at the Spring Rendezvous.  Now we have Island Girl, Melody in Sea, Namaste, Contentment, Reflection, Intuition, Nine Lives, Ned Pepper, and Total Eclipse here at River Dunes.  Those are the ones that I know of! Read more

Day 41: North to the Neuse then to a hidey hole

4/22/18:  We were in no hurry since we had less than 35 miles to travel today.   We planned to go to River Dunes Marina for three nights.  Tuesday is forecasted to have Gale force winds and 2” of rain.  Monday will be working up to being stormy.  We’re pretty sure that staying 3 nights at a nice place will be a good idea.  We’ve heard rave reviews for this marina.  This is the forecast for Tuesday.  This doesn’t include the possible gusts up to 40mph.  Not a good day to be on the water!

We could keep moving north on Monday, and stay someplace for just Mon & Tues nights, but nothing that we can get to that quickly wouldn be as nice as River Dunes.  And Monday is supposed to be windy too.  So we decided to slow down and enjoy.  What’s the rush, anyway!

Low tide was at 8:15am, so we thought we’d at least wait until it started to come in.  We pulled away from our slip at the dock around 9:30, and then did docking number 1 for today at the pumper-outer dock to empty the holding tank.   We figured we might as well empty it for free here.  Surprisingly, not all marinas offer free pump outs!  Easy successful face-dock docking (with nobody on the dock to assist, by the way).  Mission accomplished, and we were on our way.  We were headed north up Adams Creek towards the Neuse River.  Apparently this creek always has southbound current.  At our normal cruising rpm, we were only going about 6.5 knots, rather than 7.5.  Not going to get good fuel economy today.

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Day 40: We walked how many miles in Beaufort?

4/21/18:  It is Saturday, and Beaufort begins their Saturday Farmer’s Market summer season today.  YAY!  This makes sense to me – it seems like Farmer’s Market time of year.  I still haven’t really adjusted to our little Phillipi Farmer’s Market near our home in Florida.  Its season runs during the winter: October to May.  I guess that’s what we get for living where the whole year’s weather is awesome except for the summer when it’s too hot to even have a farmer’s market!  So, we got up, had some coffee, then headed to the market and for a walk about town.   Here was our welcome sign:  Welcome to Historic Beaufort, established 1709.   I didn’t find any history on this church, but it was pretty!

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Day 39: Beaufort, not Beaufort.

4/20/18:  We had some planning to do for today’s journey which would take us over 60 miles to Beaufort.
This is “BOE-fort” NC, which is not to be confused with “BIEW-fert” SC.  The first thing to check is that we need to travel through Camp Lejeune Marine Corp’s base.  They had scheduled live fire practice over the ICW for 4/17, but that could have changed.  So I called ‘Range Control’.  The nice fella told me that today would be an excellent day to travel the ICW -no firing exercises today.  YAY!  It would be a bummer to get 30 miles up there and then not be allowed to proceed.  The next item for navigational clearance:  there are two bridges for today that only open on a schedule.  The first one is Surf City swing bridge, with 12’ clearance, about 7 miles away, and only opens at the top of the hour.  We need about an hour to get there.  There is a minus tide at 6:30am, which might be too shallow for a safe departure.  We decided to leave a little before 8, and aim for the 9:00 opening.  The second bridge is Onslow swing bridge at Camp Lejeune, 20 miles further, with 12’ clearance.  It opens on the hour and the half hour.   But if you are not actually sitting there waiting, the bridge tender will NOT let you through.  After that, it would be clear cruising.   Read more